Monday, 19 August 2013

Simplicity 2444 - A Toile

I have bought the most lovely fabric to make Simplicity 2444.  (I won't share the fabric just yet but the pattern is 1/2 price in the UK at the moment)
It took me a long time to decide exactly which pattern my cherished fabric should be made into, and the ever popular 2444 seemed to fit the bill the best.  There is enough plain space in the bodice to let the fabric 'sing' and enough pleating in the skirt so as not to let the fabric 'scream.'
To ensure that I get a good fit before cutting into my special fabric, I have made a toile, which is a rare thing at Nessa's Place.  I bought a duvet cover from the local charity shop for £1, washed and ironed it ready to sew this weekend.
Taking photos of the toile has really helped.  At first I thought I may need to lengthen the waist but seeing it here I think I shall leave it as it is.  The neckline is too wide so I will need to bring it in so that the bra straps are covered.  The shoulders are too wide as well.  I intend to make the version with the small sleeves and I would like the seam not to be falling down my arm.  In fact, looking at the bunching fabric at the arm scythe I would say that I may even need to do a smaller size for the entire bodice above the bust.  Or is there something else I could do to alter that bunching out?
As for the back, there is plenty of seam allowance for the zip above the bust but not at the waist - here the fabric only just meets.  Option 1) loose weight.  Option 2) wear spandex/lycra shapewear Option 3) add an extra 5/8 to the waistline by grading out from the bust to the hip on the side seams.  I think I'll go with option 3.
I am not 100% sure but I do think that this may be my first ever pocket and they were very easy to install.
After I have made the real dress, I think I may finish this one off and make it wearable.  I really love this duvet fabric.


  1. Oooo it's my favorite pattern! Great toile and yes finish it because it's pretty fabric.Can't wait to see your reveal!

  2. Wow, it's looking so amazing. While I agree the shoulders should be brought in, I am loving the bodice and the pleating in the skirt. Haha when I read that the first option was to lose weight to make the waist fit in the back, I was so confused. "But why?? Just add a bit more to the seams!" Hahaha clearly it has been a long day for me. ;-)

    I cannot wait to see how this comes along because it looks so great already!

  3. Rotate the excess in the front of the armhole into the waist darts - thats what I would do anyway :)

    1. Thanks for the suggestion Rachel-Lou. I shall definitely have a play around with your idea.

  4. Definitely option 3! It would make a pretty dress if you get the chance to finish it, will look forward to seeing the proper fabric. I love pockets! Juliex

  5. I was thinking how lovely the fabric is - you should definitely finish it!

  6. I can't wait to see your finished dress, but this one would also be cute, too! 2444 is one of my favorite patterns. So many options!

  7. This is going to look great! Thanks for sharing this muslin analysis, I think I have many of the same fitting issues that you do (too big at and/or above the bust, often too small at the waist). I would love it if you would share your final modifications with your final version. I'm especially interested in how you fix the bust issue, that's a mystery I haven't yet solved for myself ;)

  8. Yes, you need to rotate the extra from the armhole to somewhere else. You could do a side dart or put it into the waist gathers. But what happens to the sleeve then? I don't know the answer to that.

    I just bought this pattern. I love this duvet dress. It's lovely. I do hope you finish it. g

  9. I wish my toiles looked as great as this! That fabric really is lovely - well worth finishing off. Looking forward to seeing the actual intended dress too!

  10. Wow, what a detailed muslin! I can't believe you even did the pockets!

    This is really pretty. I love the pleats on the skirt!

    Not sure about the bunching near the armholes. A smaller size may work, but definitely muslin it first!

  11. Lovely fabric! You could always pinch out the extra on the toile and then apply that to your pattern, or create a new dart feature. Looks great tho and I love pockets in dresses. (Clare


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