Monday, 25 July 2016

Upton Dress

Cashmerette patterns have released a pattern for woven fabrics called the Upton dress.  As soon as I saw it on Jenny's blog I knew it would be a style that would suit my figure and that I already had the perfect cotton fabric for too.  So here it is: my Upton Volumes dress!
The pattern has three different front bodice pattern pieces to choose from, each with different types of bust darts, depending on the difference between your bust and waist measurements.  The tricky bit for me was that my measurements suited two different sizes, so I took the suggestion in the pattern and used the bodice size that was closest to my waist measurement.  I used the waistband to slope between the two differently sized parts of the dress, to bridge the gap from the size 20 bodice to the size 18 skirt.
Now that I have worn it for a day out, and that I have looked at photos of me in the dress, I can see a few changes that I will make when I make this dress again.  It looks a bit like there isn't quite enough room in the bust but too much room above the bust, so I will use a bigger front bodice piece next time.  Also, I think I might size up the waist and skirt too.  When I was sitting down, the tightness of the waist and under-bust bodice pushed my breasts up quite a bit higher than I am used too, and caused a cleavage crease, which I personally try to avoid!  So a bit more room will let everything stay where it is supposed to!
Posing with pockets!

I have had this printed cotton fabric called "Volumes" in the colourway called "Degas" by Anna Maria Horner stored away for over a year now, just waiting for the right pattern.  I really didn't want pleats or gathers to interfere with the vertical pattern of this print, and I wanted skirt panels wide enough to make the best use of this pattern.  I made the front a priority with the skirt print and would have loved the back to have the strip of colour to be in the centre but there just wasn't enough fabric in my stash.  I compromised and at least made the back symmetrical.
I didn't have an invisible zip so used a normal one and inserted it fairly badly.  Oh well.  I could do it again but I am too lazy really, and will just leave it as is.
Here is a side view to show the fit and the shape.  Sometimes with a full figure a normal dress pattern will end up having the waist band rise up slightly in the front.  But look at the excellent pattern drafting and bust accommodation here: no rising of the front waist band!  I am very pleased overall and will be making this pattern again.
Before putting in the zip I had made the waistband out of the coloured striped fabric but decided it was too busy and then opted for the grey waistband instead.  Here's the two photos that helped me be certain about my choice.

I already have ideas for a second Upton dress!
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